Hi Everyone,

Let me say I am only a 3rd Party verifier HERS-Rater and do not install or do any contracting work. I am looking to refer a better way to seal drywalls, especially inside walls. I've seen some methods to seal sheetrock but sheet rockers are unreliable at best. So has anyone used SureSeal Drywall Gasket? It seems a better way to seal than Drywall Gasket from GreatStuff can foams. Like to know any other methods. 


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Airtight-drywall-approach (ADA) uses a durable gasket that will expand and contract with the wall component spacing, over the life of the building. There are alternatives to saturated foam such as dry foams made from EPDM. Visit http://www.conservationtechnology.com/building_gaskets.html for description of gaskets made in the USA. They have various sizes for sealing drywall, 1x edge, 2x4, 2x6, 2x8. They have revised their building gasket line so call them for updated information. They are airtight and a vapor barrier between masonry and wood connections.

Just to be upfront I work for Knauf. We are a manufacturer but those that know me also know as I have been around for over 30 years know I am quite particular about ensuring the right solution is used for projects. Knauf Insulation has an excellent solution for air sealing called ECOSEAL+. It is a water based elastomeric sealant that is able to be used for both high performance air sealing as well as air tight drywall gasketing. If you would like to learn more about ECOSEAL+ please visit https://www.knaufinsulation.us/en/content/ecoseal-plus-sealant. In addition you may contact me, Bill Parlapiano at 317-364-3222. Key is ECOSEAL+ is a product that stays flexible to move with the building, it is not able to be torn off and left in a corner, it can be applied using several application methods and it is something that various trades can install so it is an easy way to grow your business. It is also very IAQ friendly!

"Let’s think for a second about what a high performance assembly wants to be, and not just what’s the simplest way to pass the blower door test. Generally speaking, in cold/mixed climates the exterior wants to be relatively vapor open. The exterior doesn't need to be absolutely airtight (though tighter is always better) - it just needs to be what we call windtight, to avoid wind-washing from degrading the insulating layer. The exterior side is the secondary airtight layer.

The primary air barrier layer should be inboard of the insulation - keeping convective air movements away from the insulation and cold components. Better still, that inboard air barrier can now also serve as the vapor control layer, with products such as INTELLO PLUS or DB+ that double as smart vapor retarders and airtight membranes. As a result, by keeping conditioned and moist air out of the insulated enclosure, airtight smart vapor retarders can provide robust protection from moisture damages for the life of the building."


Michael, If you see this two minute video it may change your mind where the primary air barrier should be placed. 


Any inboard film, caulk, foam or gasket will have zero impact with regard to air flow entering from the outside under wind load.  External air intrusion has to first pass through the insulation cavity before it reaches any inside barrier. Allowing Cold, Moist air into insulation is not the right answer for performance or durability. Every ASTMe283 results I've been associated with details this time and time again.  

We recommend sill seal to our builders. Tacked up right along the top plate by insulators.


Is this multi family or single family?

Single family you can seal the osb to the framing. Works best. Ecoseal does a great job. Or AeroBarrier works wonders. 

Best to seal the exterior cavities so the insulation works to its full potential. 

But if you use sealed gasketed outlets and just caulk the drywall to the floor it does the same. 



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